Number of Gores, real and false

Number of gores, real and false

The number of gores in the garment determines the fit, both in widening the skirt at the bottom, and also in allowing the tailor to create a narrower fit at the top. In the basic kirtles, the function of the gores was to widen the skirt - the top of the garment was not fitted. In the later garments the second effect was used to great effect. And there seems to have been status in the number of gores used for a garment; in several garments there is an even number of gores on either side (so the false seams were not needed to make the garment symmetrical), and yet false seams have been put in to make it seem as though there were more. These false seams are evenly done, i.e. there is no shaping built into them.

go to side gores

Centre gores

**Basic, Mi-Parti and Split Kirtles**
	Centre front Real	Centre front Apparent	Centre back Real	Centre back Apparent
Bocksten	2	2	1	2
Kragelund	2	2	2	2
Skjoldehamn	1	1	1	1
Moselund	2	2	1	2

**Fitted Kirtles**
	Centre front Real	Centre front Apparent	Centre back Real	Centre back Apparent
H33	0	0	0	0
H34	0	0	0	0
H40	2	2	2	2
H41	2	2	2	2
H46	?	?	2	2
H53	?	?	2	2

**Surcotes**
	Centre front Real	Centre front Apparent	Centre back Real	Centre back Apparent
H35	0	0	0	0
H37	0	0	0	0
H38	2	2	1	2
H39	2	2	2	2
H42	2	2	1	2
H43	2	2	2	2
H45	2	2	1	2
H47	1	2	1	2
H50	2	2	2	2
H51	1	2	1	2
H56	2	2	2	2
Birgitta	0	0	0	0

**Grand Assiette**
	Centre front Real	Centre front Apparent	Centre back Real	Centre back Apparent
Moy	1	1	2	2

**Children's garments**
	Centre front Real	Centre front Apparent	Centre back Real	Centre back Apparent
H44	2	2	2	2
H48	?	?	2	2
H61	2	2	2	2

Side Gores

**Basic, Mi-Parti and Split Kirtles**
	Left Real	Left Apparent	Right Real	Right Apparent
Bocksten	1	1	2	2
Kragelund	2	2	2	2
Skjoldehamn	3	3	2	2
Moselund	1	1	2	2

**Fitted Kirtles**
	Left Real	Left Apparent	Right Real	Right Apparent
H33	2	2	2	2
H34	1	2	2	2
H40	1	2	2	2
H41	4	4	4	4
H46	3	4	?	?
H49	?	?	?	?
H53	1	4	?	?

**Surcotes**
	Left Real	Left Apparent	Right Real	Right Apparent
H35	2	2	2	2
H37	1	2	1	2
H38	3	4	3	4
H39	1	2	2	2
H42	2	2	1	2
H43	2	2	2	2
H45	1	4	2	4
H47	1	2	1	2
H50	2	2	2	2
H51	?	?	?	?
H56	1	2	2	2
Birgitta	6	6	6	6

**Grand Assiette**
	Left Real	Left Apparent	Right Real	Right Apparent
Moy	1	1	1	1

**Childrens' garments**
	Left Real	Left Apparent	Right Real	Right Apparent
H44	2	2	2	2
H48	2	2	1	2
H61	2	2	2	2