Fabrics
linen | wool (unspecified) | fine wool | medium wool | coarse wool | silk | |
basic, mi-parti and split kirtles | - | 3 | 3 | 1 | - | - |
fitted kirtles | - | 5 | 1 | - | 2 | - |
closed surcotes | - | 4 | 1 | 2 | 4 | - |
open surcotes | - | - | 1 | 1 | - | - |
grand assiette | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 |
children's garments | - | - | 1 | - | 1 | - |
arming cotes | - | - | - | - | - | 2 |
linings (all from Margrethe) | 3 | - | - | - | - | - |
There seems to be some trends here that make sense, although of course with such a limited selection we have to be careful about drawing conclusions. However, if a closed surcote is an outdoors-garment, and an open surcote mainly an indoor or fair-weather garment, then it makes sense that the former is more often made of stouter material and the latter of finer stuff.
We can also see that the Grand Assiette garments are spread through society; two are made of the richest material available, and yet the third is of a coarse wool.