Weave information
The fabrics used for the Herjolfsnes garments are thoroughly unusual. While the European material during this time typically is warp faced, the Herjolfsnes material is typically weft faced. It's also quite open, the density of the threads in the weave is low although the threads themselves are very finely spun, so the fabric doesn't appear to have been fulled at all. Done in 2/2 twill, this 'almost-open weave' would have draped absolutely wonderfully, not that we'll ever know as the fabric is now sewn to a backing fabric that's quite stiff. The wool is worsted, quite shiny too, and the average density is 10/10 per cm.
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warp spin/density | weft spin/density | tabby | 2/1 twill | 2/2 twill | velvet | brocade | |
Basic Kirtles | Bocksten | Z8-10/cm | S7-8/cm | - | x | - | - | - |
Kragelund | Z11-12/cm (circa) | S7/cm (circa) | - | x | - | - | - | |
Skjoldehamn | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
Mi-parti | Ronbjerg | Z7-10/cm (circa) | S12-14/cm (circa) | - | - | x | - | - |
Soderkoping | Z12/cm | S7-8/cm | - | x | - | - | - | |
Split | Moselund | Z14/cm | S10/cm | - | x | - | - | - |
Fitted Kirtles | H33 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - |
H34 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H36 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H40 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H41 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H46 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H49 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | |
H53 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
Closed Surcotes | H35 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
H38 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H39 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H42 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H43 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H45 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H47 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H50 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H51 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
H56 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | |
Open surcotes | Birgitta | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
H37 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
Grande Assiette | Charles de Blois | - | - | - | - | - | - | x |
Margrethe | S80/cm | S22-26/cm | - | - | - | - | x | |
Margrethe lining 1 | Z22/cm | Z22/cm | - | - | - | - | - | |
Margrethe lining 2 | Z11/cm | Z9/cm | - | - | - | - | - | |
Margrethe lining 3 | Z15cm | Z15/cm | - | - | - | - | - | |
Moy | Z20/inch | Z18-20/inch | - | x | - | - | - | |
Children's garments | H44 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - |
H48 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | |
H61 | - | - | - | - | x | - | - | |
Arming Cotes | Black Prince | - | - | - | - | - | x | - |
Charles IV | - | - | - | - | - | - | x |